Mosel. Egon Müller
Have you watched the popular Apple TV series “Drops of God”? In one of the last episodes, during a competition to inherit a great wine cellar, the question was asked, “Which bottle is regularly served at the Elysée Palace during diplomatic dinners with the German Chancellor?”. The answer: Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Trockenbeerenauslese 1991. Egon Müller combines heritage with modernity to produce some of the most coveted rieslings in the world. Join me on the unforgettable journey through these historic vineyards.
Scharzhof Manor, seen in the photo below as well as on the wine labels, is located in the small village of Wiltingen in the Saar-Ruwer, Mosel region of Germany. It is currently managed by Egon Müller IV, who owns the largest part of the Scharzhofberg vineyard, which is only a 5-minute walk from the manor - home to the Müller family. The entire parcel is 28 hectares, and Egon Müller IV has more than 8, being the largest owner of this terroir. The winery has been a member of the VDP for decades.
The legendary Scharzhofberg vineyard
The Scharzhofberg vineyard has its roots in Roman times. Historically owned by monks, it consists of two plots of land: Bischöfliche Weingüter and Egon Müller. The name “Scharz” in Latin means “cleared slope.” In 1700 Napoleonic troops took the vineyard from the Catholic Church. Then in 1797 Joachim Koch, an ancestor of Egon Müller, bought it back privately, thus becoming the owner of this legendary terroir. Significant steps to improve the quality of the wine were taken by Egon Müller III in the period immediately following World War II. Among other things he purchased the Wiltinger Kupp and Wiltinger Braune Kupp vineyards. They are currently managed by his son, Egon Müller IV.
The future of the oldest Scharzhofberg vines
The photo above shows the oldest section of Scharzhofberg with vines planted in 1895 and 1905, which are still growing on European rootstocks from before the phylloxera. Unfortunately, the upper section of the hill was attacked in 2017 and 2018. Certain parts of the vineyard were grafted, creating a natural island of old vines which now are exposed to the infestation. As a result some vines, including even those 130 years old, had to be uprooted. Despite technological and scientific advances, there is still no effective cure for phylloxera. The current strategy for Scharzhofberg is to create a cordon sanitaire around the ungrafted vines to slow the spread of the pest. A small service road separates the oldest part of the plantings from the rest, but will not be able to completely stop the louse. Although there are no signs of the infection so far, it is expected that within two years a large part will have to be uprooted and replanted. Yields will drop, so if it's hard to find these wines now, it will soon be even harder. According to estimates, within 5 to 10 years all old vines will be infested, which means that the time in which we can taste wines still made from the European rootstocks is very limited. With the replanting of the oldest vines, the single cord method you see in the photos above will also disappear, which is currently a unique sight.
Tradition and modernity at Scharzhofberg
Note the interesting method of vine management - the so-called “single pole” - an old Mosel method that is now increasingly rare. The density of vine planting on Scharzhofberg is about 9,000 vines per hectare, and production, reduced by phylloxera, is about half a liter of wine per vine. The pruning method involves leaving a single branch with two spare buds in case of frost. Stronger shoots are selected from both buds. Geologically, Scharzhofberg is a gray slate with iron oxide, and the cool climate of the Saar valley and proximity to the river cause frequent fogs, which favor the development of noble rot.
Climate change challenges
Climate change is always on my short list of questions. In Germany, it mainly affects the production of Eiswein, or ice wine. The last Eiswein harvest was in 2016. For the past three years, some of the fruit has been left on the vine to see if the right weather conditions will arrive which is a key factor here. Temperatures must reach at least -7 degrees Celsius, harvesting must take place between 2am and 6am, and the grapes must be squeezed before 7am. The risk of leaving the grapes on the vine is obvious - the right conditions may not occur, risking a loss of yield. Egon Müller still strives to produce this style of wine, although he succeeds less and less often. Harvest times are also changing. In 2023 it lasted from September 21 to mid-October, as in 2022. However in 2021, the harvest began in mid-October and lasted until November, showing that the later end of the harvest happens even these days.
Production trends: fewer sweet wines, more QBA and Spätlese
The 2023 harvest was lower than usual. Instead of the usual 60,000 liters, about 50,000 were harvested. As a result, Eiswein production was given up on. Egon Müller's philosophy is to harvest grapes with noble rot - even the lowest category, QBA, contains 5-10% botrytized grapes. Auslese is made from 100% grapes with noble rot, which explains the absence of the Beerenauslese category since 2015. Top quality wines are the priority, and current trends show that consumers are drinking less and less sweet wines. Egon Müller has taken notice, focusing production on QBA, Kabinett and Spätlese, although fine sweet wines will continue to be produced if conditions are favorable. The year 2023 was exceptionally favorable, with foggy mornings, sunny afternoons and temperatures around 20°C. The production of Auslese, Trockenbeerenauslese and Eiswein accounts for only about 5% of total production.
Natural harmony
Although Egon Müller's wines are not certified, work in the vineyard is done with respect for nature. Fertilizers and straw are spread between the rows to improve humus levels and balance nitrogen in the soil. Natural cover crops, of which there are as many as 80 species, enrich Schazhofberg's biodiversity. They are mowed to add nutrients to the soil. Because of the steepness of the slope and the cultivation method, the plow must be lowered from the top, which cuts the roots close to the surface and provides nitrogen to the vines for the entire season. The work is done by hand, and harvesting takes three to four weeks. The main challenges are phylloxera and Esca, but losses are limited - estimated to be about 1% of production. Fermentation is spontaneous and in extreme cases takes up to three weeks to start.
Secrets of the Mosel cellar
The cellar is not very large and houses many old oak barrels, mostly 1000-liter foudres made of German oak, typical of the Mosel region. It is important and challenging to keep the barrels in good condition. Cleaning, which takes two to four weeks, is done with brushes and a special mixture of citric acid, sulfites and water. This mixture remains in the barrel until it needs to make room for new wine, ensuring barrel neutrality and only a mild oxidative effect. It's also a test for barrel tightness, which is crucial to avoid leaks. The pH of the wines is usually between 2.6 and 2.9, and malolactic fermentation (MLF) never takes place to preserve freshness and purity of flavor. The average annual production is 80,000 bottles, including many half-bottles, not just for sweet wines. Some parts of the cellar are old - dating back to 1880. Below you can see an impressive private wine library, in which 95% of the labels are Egon Müller wines. The oldest is from 1921 (that's also the year when the Von Schubert family at the Maximin Grünhaus estate first produced Trockenbeerenauslese).
Chips on Egon Müller’s labels
While tradition is present at every turn, Egon Müller does not shy away from modern technology. Since 2022, every bottle from the winery has been tracked with a chip on the label. The problem of counterfeiting wines with this status is serious, and the reason for the introduction of this solution was a disturbing event. In 2020, someone broke into the cellar, just like what happened at Soldera (link to article here), but fortunately this time there was not as much damage. The burglar was specifically looking for high-end bottle labels. The winery disclosed the incident immediately after the fact, but the perpetrator remains unknown to this day. The numbers of the stolen labels have been made public, and new labels are being printed exclusively on demand and are no longer stored at the winery. It should be remembered that the property is the home of the Müller family, not just a place for wine production and aging which should further reinforce the wine community's outrage at this act.
Tasting room in the library
I was invited to the tasting room, which is also a private library with an impressive collection of old books. The tasting included the following labels, mostly from the warmer 2022 vintage. It was a dry year from spring to September with minimal rainfall, which reduced yields and dried out the vines. The situation changed in September, when monsoon rains continued for a week. Here are the labels I had the pleasure to taste:
Egon Müller QbA Riesling 2022: QbA, meaning a quality wine of guaranteed origin, accounts for about 33% of production. It is a semi-dry wine with 30 grams of residual sugar, 9% alcohol and 8 grams of acidity. Grapes come from Wiltinger Braunfels, Oberemmeler Rosenberg and Saarburger Rausch. The wine combines rich aromas in the nose with lightness on the palate. Green apple, lemon and tropical pineapple notes are noticeable. The palate is light with a delicate sweetness, and the finish is long and elegant. Depending on the vintage, it can contain from 2 to 10% botrytized grapes. Harvest is usually in late September or early October, with QbA and Kabinett harvested first. The wine goes well with Asian or Indian cuisine.
Wiltinger Braune Kupp Riesling Kabinett 2022: aromas of white and orange flowers, five spices, smoke and stone fruit. Fuller-bodied, but still fresh, with 30 grams of residual sugar and 7.5 grams of acidity. A wine of serious character, long and ripe on the finish.
Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Kabinett 2022: The sample was a bit shy on the nose due to the young age of the wine. Delicately smoky and herbal. Sweetness quickly gave way to acidity, creating an exotic but fresh profile. It is rare to find a wine that is so shy yet characterful.
Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Alte Reben Kabinett 2022: Available only at VDP auction starting in 2020 with a very high price tag. It is considered the “Barolo among Kabinetts”. Selection of the best foudres and old vines. Definitely a more concentrated wine than the other Kabinett, exotic with herbal notes nicely woven in.
Egon Müller Wiltinger Braune Kupp Le Gallais Riesling Spätlese 2022: Depending on the vintage, this label contains between 20% and 50% botrytized grapes. The 2022 was harvested between the first and third week of October. Aromas of mango, passion fruit, honey, mineral and precision on the palette. Sugar about 80 g, acidity 7 g. More rich and exotic, but according to the producer's wine standards it still cannot be classified as a sweet wine.
Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Spätlese 2022: flinty, closed on the nose, with notes of orange and passion fruit. Rich but light on the palate, with exotic and citrus aromas and long, hedonistic finish. This wine needs much more time in bottle to show all its strengths - it's still a baby at this stage.
Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Spätlese 2003: from the family library, a vintage considered excellent, perhaps a bit in the shadow of the coveted 2005. It was chosen deliberately for tasting, as Egon Müller believes the 2022 should evolve in a similar way. Very expressive on the nose, aromas of candied exotic fruit peel, oranges, on the palette perfectly balanced creaminess. Color not too deep - golden yellow, walnut on the finish. Perfectly harmonious despite 90 g of residual sugar with wonderfully marked acidity. A rich but not heavy wine, perfect for further aging although already quite well developed. One is left with the impression that it still hasn't said its last word.
Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Auslese 1999: another amazing bottle from a private library. The last vintage made by Horst Frank and his father, who were once in charge of production at Scharzhof and looked after 65 vintages for Egon Müller. Horst considered 1999 to be his best vintage. Concentration tells the story - the difference between Spätlese and Auslese is obvious. On the nose, aromas of honey, herbs, saffron and nuts. A perfect combination of acidity and exotic ripeness, an elegant, exotic fruit profile. The quintessence of elegance! A wine at the absolute optimum point for drinking.
I would like to thank Egon Müller IV and his son Egon Müller V for their invitation and hospitality and for allowing me to experience this magical place and their home. A big thank you also goes to Laura, who patiently adjusted the schedule to allow me to visit. I can't forget Lars, to whom thanks are due for the entire experience and the time spent answering my many questions.
This article was written in cooperation with Anna Gmurczyk and the Institute of German Wines in Poland, whom I thank for their support.